Esmaspäev, 10. september 2012

Dolpo matka kava.

Sain Kaittilt matka kava. Et see polnud kuupäevadega seotud, koostasin oma versiooni (NB koos puhkepäevaga Pokharas). Võimalik on matka alguse nihkumine, näiteks lend Nepalgunji 1. oktoobri asemel 2. oktoobril (või isegi 3. 10.). Vastavalt sellele nihkub kogu graafik. Me sõltume esialgu ju kohalikest lendudest. Ja Pokhara päeva ei pruugi olla. Visandina näeb asi välja umbes nii. Kurud, mäeharjad ja -seljandikud on märgitud paksus kirjas. Lisan ka Lonely Planeti andmed päevaste summaarsete tõusude ja laskumiste kohta.

Passes, ridges and crests are in bold font, and also summary ascend and descend data given by Lonely Planet "Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya" (2009).

Kõrgemad kurud teel (High passes on our trek):
Sehu La (Mendok Ding La) 5160 m
Shey La 5010 m
Mushi La 5030 m
Chharka La 4920 m
Sangda La 5460 m
Lower Sangda La 4990 m

Day 01, 28. 09. 12.55 Tallinn – Kopenhagen, 15.35 Kopenhagen-Doha.

Day 02, 29. 09. 9. 10. Doha- Kathmandu. Arrive in Kathmandu airport 16. 35, transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 03, 30. 09. Free day in Kathmandu for trekking preparation. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 04, 1. 10. Fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj. You fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj in the southwest part of the Terai, right on the border to India. After checking into your hotel you might go and have a look at the Bageshwari Mandir, a temple to honour Kali. But what Nepalganj is all about is just wandering around in the bazaar, which has everything on sale that one could imagine. You will see people here from every part of Nepal, people from Tibet and India; they all come here to trade.

Day 05, 2. 10. Fly from Nepalgunj to Juphal (2500) and trek from Juphal to Dunai (2000). You go to the airport very early in order to get on the flight to Juphal. Dolpo flights are always early in the morning. This is because high winds in the Thulo Bheri Valley begin around 10 am, making later flights impossible. Once you have gotten all your equipment of the Twin otter in Juphal, you start out on the short walk from Juphal to Dunai. You walk downhill through meadows and past a few houses to the small hotels at Kala Gaura (2090 m). From here you follow the river trail upstream to Dunai. You camp near Dunai and explore this bustling little hill town for the rest of the afternoon.

Day 06, 3. 10. Trek from Dunai to Chepka (2670) which takes about seven hours. 770 m ascent (LP). You start trekking from Dunai, cross the big steel suspension bridge and turn west, following the trail past the hospital, and then it's a level walk along the bank of the Thulo Bheri to its confluence with the Suli Gaad at 2070 m. You follow the new trail north up the east bank of the Suli Gaad to a collection of teashops run by the wives of army personnel in Dunai. Another hour of walking takes us to Kal Rupi and then on to Raktang (2260 m). You cross to the west bank and trek past numerous goths and horses pastures over a ridge to the rough stone houses of Jyalhasa, a wintering spot for the people of Ringmo. You keep walking upstream to another bridge, cross it to the east bank, and make your way past some crude teashops and a bridge over a side stream, the Ankhe Khola, at 2460 m. The trail makes some ups and downs through grass and ferns to a trail junction. The fork is the old trail leading to the army and national park post at Ankhe, and on to the old trail that passes the villages of Rahagoan and Parela, high on the ridge above.
These three villages a strange name connection: Parela (parela means eye-lashes), Rahagoan (raha means eyebrow) and Ankhe (ankha is eye).
The trail Phoksumdo Lake climbs over a ridge at 2710 m then descends on a rocky path to Chepka (2670 m), which is inhabited by three brothers and consists of collection of interconnected shops, rakshi stalls and lodges. You camp here or at another good spot beside a huge rock in walnut grove about 20 minutes beyond Chepka.

Day 07, 4. 10. Trek from Chepka to Renje (3010) and it takes about six hours. 500 m ascent, 320 descent. You continue on the new trail, which stays near the river, climbing over a small ridge ,then crossing to the west side to avoid a large ridge and returning to the east side an hour later near a national park camping ground. Alongside the river at 2900 m, the trail becomes a collection of rocks and sticks forming a dyke along the river bank. The trail makes several more ups and downs through forests of firs and larches as it continues upstream to a bridge that leads to nine houses comprising the village of Renje on the opposite side of the river at 3010 m. You camp at a good camp site here or another about five minutes further on.

Day 08, 5. 10. Trek from Renje to Ringmo (3640) which takes about seven hours. 880 m ascent, 90 m descent. You follow the Suli Gaad valley, which turns eastward and becomes even steeper and narrower. You then climb over a ridge and descends to a wooden bridge then continue along the ups and downs along the valley floor to the confluence of the Suli Gaad with the Pungmo Khola. From here the trail to Phoiksumdo Lake and Shey gompa follows the west bank of the river. You climb through a forest of big cedar to a good camp site and then on to Palam (3710 m), a winter settlement used by the people of Ringmo village. The houses are almost burried in the sandy soil. The entrance station for Shey Phoksumdo National Park is at the south end of the village. After your park entrance ticket is examined, you may be subjected to a baggage inspection-ostensibly for drugs and stolen art objects. It's very peculiar formality in this remote locale.
You continue on the route, which switchbacks steeply on a sandy trail through open country to an elevation of 3300 m, then you start up another steep set of dusty switchbacks to a ridge at 3780 m. From the ridge there are distant views of a spectacular 200 m high waterfall, the highest in Nepal. The trail makes a steep descent in birch forests to the upper reaches of the brilliantly clear,rushing waters of the Phoksumdo Khola, then you climb gently to Ringmo village, a picturesque settlement of flat-roofed stone houses with lots of mud-plastered chortens and maniwalls. Just below Ringmo, you cross a bridge and follow a trail north to the ranger station at Phoksumdo Lake (3730). You continue to the shores of the lake near the point where the Phoksumdo Khola flows out of the lake. There are national park camping grounds on both sides of the river on the south-east shore of the lake. Park rules prohibit us from camping in other places

Day 09, 6. 10. Rest and exploration. A trail leads from the lakeside through juniper trees to the white Pal Sentan Thasoon Chholing gompa, a ramshackle Bon-po gompa overlooking the lake that is said have been built 60 generations ago. There are five other private gompas in various houses of small monastic community near the lake. The insides of the temples contain dusty Buddhist paintings and statues, but the trappings also reflect the animistic elements of the Bon-po religion, so some of the chapels are reminiscent of an ancient witch's cavern. A donation to the ragtag collection of dirty monks will gain us entrance to the gompas; your sherpas will be equally fascinated by the strange iconography and practice of the Bon-po religion.

Ringmo village by marches-lontaines.com

Day 10, 7. 10. Trek from Ringmo to Chunemba (3630) it takes approximately six hours. 570 m ascent, 560 m descent. From your camp site near Ringmo on the southern end of Phoksumdo Lake, the trail contours on a rocky ledge as it skirts the western lip of the lake. In places it's precariously suspended on a gangway of wood supported on pegs driven into crevices in the rocks. As you cross a stream, look up at the glacier descending from the upper slopes of Kanjeralwa (6612 m). You then climb to a crest at 4060 m for a spectacular view of the lake with the snowy peaks of Sonam Kang in the background. The trail makes a step and dusty descent through birches and blue pines to the westernmost edge of the lake at 3630 m where the Phoksumdo Khola enters. The route now heads west up a long a wide valley. You follow an indistinct trail through thorn bushes and scrub trees, crisscrossing boggy marshes and tributaries of Phoksumdo Khola. You camp in a forest of blue pines at Chunemba, an undeveloped national park camping ground at 3630 m.

Day 11, 8. 10. Trek from Chunembe to Lar Tsa (4120) which takes almost five and half hours. 570 m ascent, 80 m descent. You begin the day along the level path that now heads north through a glacial valley. You then cross to the east bank of Phoksumdo Khola. You follow the main valley for another hour to kang Gompa. You climb steeply from Kang Gompa and stay on the grassy ridge. It's a long climb up the ridge past a few groves of birch trees. There are spectacular mountain views with Shey Shikar (6139m) and Kang Chunne (6443 m) dominating the skyline to the west. You continue on a crest at 4200 m then the route descends gently on a rocky trail to Lar Tsa, a camp site besides the river at 4120 m.
It's possible to continue walking, but you have now ascended more than 500 m in a day and should spend the night at Lar tsa for acclimatisation.

Day 12, 9. 10. Trek from Lar Tsa to Mendok Din (4610) and it takes about three hours. 520 m ascent, 130 m descent. You cross a new bridge and climb to the top of a scree slope at 4490 m, then make your way up a grassy ridge to a crest at 4640 m. You contour and then drop gently into Mendok Ding (flower valley). You again climb alongside a stream to a campsite at 4610 m. You are almost certain to spot herds of blue sheep on the slopes above the camp.

Day 13, 10. 10. Trek from Mendok Din to Shey Gompa (4390) which takes approximately eight and half hours. 1040 m ascent, 1240 m descent. You continue on the route that follows the upper reaches of the Phoksumdo Khola, and then you turn north towards the peak of Riwo Drugdra (Crystal Mountain). There is a choice of trails here; you follow the more scenic pilgrim route across the Sehu La to the west of Crystal Mountain, making a kora (circumambullation) of this sacred peak. The Dolma trail turns north soon after camp while the pilgrim trail starts up a steep scree slope on the opposite side of a stream that flows from the north.
After a long pull to Sehu La (also known as Mendok Ding La) at 5160 m the trail descends a scree slope to a grassy meadow besides a stream valley and begins a series of long ascents and descends across ridges in and out of side valleys as it traverses around Crystal Mountain. After a steep, rough climb to a crest at 5010 m and another at 4860 m, you begin the descent to the Tar valley. Soon after the route reaches grassy slopes a side trail leads to Tsakang, a gompa said to be 800 years that is perched dramatically on the side of a cliff. The final descent is on a wide trail to a campsite in a large meadow near a few nomads huts at 4310, just below Shey gompa.

Day 14, 11. 10. Rest and Exploration day. Cross the river on a log bridge and climb past a big chorten and a huge field of manistones to the Shey gompa compound at 4390m. The gompa itself is not large, and there are no artifacts or paintings of note inside. Although the building is said to be 800 years old, the wall paintings are relatively recent, probably done in 1970s. The statues on the altar are of Guru Rimpoche, Sakyamuni and Milarepa. The gompa also houses an ancient Tibetan scroll that describes the myth of Crystal Mountain and Shey gompa. According to the inscription, there is a holy lake in a crater among the mountains that surrounds Shey. When a pilgrim makes nine circumambulations of this lake the water turns milk. A sip of this milk and the pilgrim can se Mt Kailash in the distance.

Day 15, 12. 10. Trek from Shey Gompa to Namgung (4430) which takes almost seven and half hours. 1020 m ascent, 900 m descent. You trek east from Shey gompa and across the 5010 m Shey La. Here you turn north and descend before climbing again to Namgung (4430 m).

Day 16, 13. 10. Trek from Namgung to Karang (4050) which takes almost six hours. 150 m ascent, 530 m descent. You traverse high above the Namgung Kola to Karang (4050 m). It's also possible to descend to Saldang on the banks of the river, but this village holds little of interest.

Day 17, 14. 10. Trek from Karang to Mugaon (4100) and it takes approximately seven and half hours. 490 m ascent, 550 m descent. You descend to Torak Sumdo (3670 m), the confluence of the Namgung and Polang kholas, and cross to the northern bank. You then climb to Yanger gompa at 3750 m and trek along the river side valley. You camp at one of the camp sites alongside the stream at about 4100 m before Mugaon.

Day 18, 15. 10. Trek from Mugaon to Shimen (4010) which takes almost eight and half hours. 1040 m ascent, 890 m descent. You continue up the valley to Mugaon and climb towards the Mushi La at 5030 m. Then you descend towards Shimen village, you end the day at a good camp site in pastures above the village at 4010 m.

Day 19, 16. 10. Trek from Shiment to Tinje (4150) and it takes about eight hours. 280 m ascent, 270 m descent. You drop down to Shimen village at 3870 m and make a long trek upriver through Pha (4090 m) to Tinje.

Day 20, 17. 10. Trek from Tinje to Rakpa (4530) which takes approximately eight hours. 550 m ascent, 170 m descent. You trek past the runway of mysterious Tinje airport to a trail junction at 4130m, where a high route leads to Tarap. You continue southward to a camp site on the banks of the river at Rakpa (4530 m).

Day 21, 18. 10. Trek from Rakpa to Chharka (4120) and it takes almost eight hours. 490 m ascent, 900 m descent. You begin your day with a long climb to the Chharka La (4920 m). You continue on the trail descending along the side of the valley, then make a big drop into a side valley at 4290 m. You then make a long traverse down to the picturesque village of Chharka on the banks of Barbung Kola at 4120 m.

Snow near Chharka pass by marches-lontaines.com

Mountains over Chharka by marches-lontaines.com

Chharka village by marches-lontaines.com

Day 22, 19. 10. Trek from Chharka to Norbulung (4750) and it takes about seven hours. 820 m ascent, 190 m descent. You descend again to a river. You follow the right fork southward, climbing in and out of side valleys on a rough trail. The valley narrows, you then emerge into a big meadow and climb to your campsite at Norbulung (4750 m).

Day 23, 20. 10. Trek from Norbulung to Sangda Phedi (5100) and it takes approximately eight hours. 790 m ascent, 440 m descent. You begin the day climbing to a yak pasture at Molum Sumna (4860 m) and on to a crest at 5130 m. You then make a long traverse across meadows to the foot of the Sangda La, then a long, steep final climb to the pass at 5460 m. Switchback down to a camp site by a stream at 5100 m.

Snow near Sangda La by marches-lontaines.com

Day 24, 21. 10. Trek from Sangda Phedi to Sangda (3700) which takes about eight hours. 460 m ascent, 1860 m descent. You climb to a lower Sangda La at 4990 m, and then descend through loose shale towards the village of Sangda Ghunsa (4190 m). You drop to the Chalung Khola, crossing it at 3750 m, and then climb steeply up the opposite bank. A long high traverse leads to a cairn at 4090 m, you then come to a set of steep switchbacks descends to a stream at 3580 m. You do another climb to the compact settlement of Sangda, were you end a long day at 3700 m.

Sangda village by marches-lontaines.com

Day 25, 22. 10. Trek from Sangdo to Dhagarjun (3290) and it takes about eight hours. 970 m ascent, 1380 m descent. You climb the hill behind Sangda and spent most of the day making a high traverse, crossing nine ridges to a final crest at 4280 m. You then descend into the Kali Gandaki valley, traversing under high cliffs and descending to the large village of Dhagarjun (3290 m).

Day 26, 23. 10. Trek from Dhagarjun to Jomsom (2670). 70 m ascent, 690 m descent. You climb to a ridge at 3360 m and make a final descent on a challenging trail of loose rocks to Jomsom at 2670 m. Stay overnight at lodge/camp.

Day 27, 24. 10. You take an early flight from Jomsom to Pokhara - a fantastic way to round off the trek, flying right along the Kali Gandaki Gorge between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The fly from Jomsom to Pokhara takes about 25 minutes. Flights are available in the morning time. On the morning flight, the sky is usually very clear and allows you to enjoy the splendid views of the different mountain peaks. Stay overnight at hotel in Pokhara.

Day 28, 25. 10. Free day in Pokhara.

Day 29, 26. 10. Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus that takes about seven hours. While driving from Pokhara to Kathmandu, you head up to Damauli, Dumre, Muglin and Kurintar where the Nepal's first Cable car is operated to reach to Manakamana Temple. En route, you could enjoy the mountain views, green sceneries, rice terrace fields, vegetable fields and people being engaged in their daily life activities. From Naubishe you climb up to Thankot, the gateway to capital city. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 30, 27. 10. Kathmandu.

Day 31, 28. 10. Kathmandu.

Day 32, 29. 10. 19.30. Kathmandu-Doha.

Day 33, 30. 10. 01.50 Doha-Kopenhagen, 9.40. Kopenhagen-Tallinn. Arriving 12.15.

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